The Complete RUST Farming 2.0 Guide
With the introduction of the RUST Farming 2.0 Update, new and exciting farming related items have been added into the game. Malonik brings us a complete farming guide, introducing us to the old and new farming systems in this helpful in-depth tutorial video. Divided into two sections, the first covering the basics of farming and the second covering in-depth farming mechanics, conditions, and genetics.
This RUST farming 2.0 video guide can be used as a solid starting point for future farming guides, as more advanced techniques for setting up automated watering systems and advanced genetics will be just around the corner. If your style is to build in highly remote areas, such as winter biomes and icebergs, take heed on these new changes to the RUST farming 2.0 system.
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Hey guys! Mal here.
Today we are taking a look at the brand new farming system in rust. Facepunch have given us very little information to work with, but we sat down and had a look, and this is our understanding of how farming works as it is on the staging branch the day before release.
So far, there are two ways to water your plants. Either manually with a jerry-can, or drawn from a freshwater storage source. Water sources are limited to the small and large water catchers and the water barrel. In testing, the water catchers and the barrel have different rates, but at the moment, the rates are inconsistent.
As it currently stands, the small watcher catcher gives six water, and the large water catcher and water barrel both give 12 water.
The water output will connect your source to the sprinklers. On the flat ground, you won’t need a water pump; however, when your sprinklers are higher than your water source, a powered pump is required.
Pumps have three electrical sockets, one for powering the pump, the other two for remotely switching it on and off.
Depending on your layout, place your sprinklers near your planters, either on the ground between planters, on the wall near them or on the ceiling overhead.
Play around with the new hose tool, and you’ll see that the hose system works very similarly to electricity’s wire tool. Much like the lights, the sprinklers have water in the socket and a water passthrough socket.
Sprinklers will each take two mil per second out of any water source. If your source only puts out 6, that’s 3 sprinklers maximum. Double that for a source of 12 from the water barrel or large catcher.
Freshwater will steadily increase the saturation of the soil, whereas saltwater will drain it.
Liquid splitters at the moment don’t have a clearly defined function. They are able to split the water in 3 separate directions at the cost of 1 water from the flow rate.
But since the passthrough in sprinklers has no such water loss, it is always more efficient to simply run the passthrough.
Remember, your planters need both water and light. Light can either be from the sun or from electrical sources. Without both sunlight and water, the plants’ growth will stall.
At this point, you have enough information to go and start your farming adventure, water source to pump, pump to sprinklers, sprinklers to planters.
However, for the truly dedicated, Facepunch has added several features to the crops.
It’s not necessary to learn these features, but if you want to increase your yield and speed up the time it takes for plants to grow, you’ll have to take into account the environmental conditions and the plant’s genetics.
Once placed in a planter, the plant itself will give you the details of its environment when you look at it.
At the moment, light is an absolute. The plant is either lit or not. There’s no half lighting or lighting from any sources other than sun and ceiling lights. Without light, the overall plant health will drop to zero and not grow at all.
Much the same for water. Saturation must be maintained by either yourself or the sprinklers. You want to keep water consistently topped up. The more the saturation drops, the lower the overall health and progress of the plants.
The quality of the ground is determined largely by the presence of a planter. Without one, the soil quality varies greatly and is unpredictable. With a planter, the soil quality will hold at a reasonable percent but can be improved to 100 by using fertilizer in the planter.
This brings us to the next new thing this patch. Horses poo now. Yep. Only horses, though, because the other animals don’t have buttholes clearly.
So you get yourself a horse, and as you feed it, this thing will slowly fire out poop. You put that along with plant fibers that you get from dead or finished crops into the brand new composter, and overtime, it’ll turn it into fertilizer automatically.
All these stats feed into the ‘overall’ health, which is capped at the lowest of the active stats. All the water and fertilizer won’t help if the plant isn’t well lit and vice-versa.
Temperature works a little differently in that it restricts the growth of plants with low hardiness. So ideally, if you’re trying to farm in the snow, you’ll be aiming to get clones with a lot of h genes to improve their hardiness.
At last, this brings us to the plant’s genetic codes. This is where it gets properly complicated, but if you want the perfect potato, you’re going to have to wrap your brain around this.
Each plant has six potential genetic slots which are randomly determined when a seed is planted.
Each slot can be occupied by a gene feature. G for increased growth speed. Y for increased yield. H for increased hardiness. W for increased water requirements. And X for an empty genetic space.
Once you plant the seeds or clones, you will watch the plants as they progress from seedling to sapling obeying their genetic code. Lots of g’s and the plant will grow very fast. Extra hardiness and the plant will do better in worse climates. Lots of w’s and the plants will need extra water to grow.
Once they reach the crossbreeding phase, the plants will begin to interact and copy genes from their neighbors.
We’re not 100 percent, but it seems that traits tend to dominate when more crops in the planter share genetic traits. This will allow players to mix and match strains to make hardier, faster-growing, and higher-yielding plants.
After the crossbreeding stage, you can see that the genetic code for the plant may have changed, affecting how it’s going to grow from here on out.
The plant will fruit based on a combination of its condition and genetics. The yield will settle, rounding up for values over .5. After this, the plant will ripen, which is the long period of time in which you have to harvest your crop or make clones.
Some plants will have multiple life cycles, fruiting more than once. This is shown on the plant’s clone under harvests.
Oh, it’s also worth mentioning that all of the new conditions also apply to just planting stuff on the ground.
In other words, if you plant on the ground rather than in a planter, then you’ll have crappy ground, you’ll have to water it yourself regularly, and you’ll most likely end up losing the crop or getting a terrible yield from it. Additionally, growing in planters appears to be roughly twice as fast, depending on circumstances.
Lastly, I want to reiterate that all of this testing was done on staging just prior to release. I’m expecting things to change and will pin a comment with any changes to this video. Possibly even follow it up with changes in the advanced guide.
Anyway, I think that covers farming pretty well and should get everyone on their way. Once Facepunch finalizes the farming system, I’ll be able to provide more accurate guides on the best setups to use. For the time being, there are a lot of uncertainties that we can only cover once Facepunch makes some decisions on how things will work.
Let me know in the comments if you found this helpful, and if there’s enough interest, I can rig up a farm that automatically waters itself for you.
It would be awesome if you could leave alike, and if you’re new, why not sub!
Anyway, thanks for watching right until the end and I’ll see you guys in the next video!